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Liz Weir and Ballyeamon Camping Barn

by Susan Harold It would have been three years this July since I had traveled “home” to Ireland. Seeing the Aer Lingus ticket sale in the Denver Post one frosty winter Sunday Prompted me to once again travel toward the Isle of Tears, good Craic and precious friends. My plans were to circumvent the island starting in Dublin moving down to An Daingean, up to Westport, on to Convoy, then to Cushendall, Belfast and back to Dublin. Along the way I wanted to visit four places: Ceann Sleá, the Abbey Church on Clare Island (St Bridget’s Church to some), the North of Ireland where I have spent very little time in past travels, and The Hill of Tara. However, for this particular article I would like to focus on my visit to Cushendall and the Ballyeamon Camping Barn owned by storyteller Liz Weir. Pat McCullough introduced Liz and I through email and plans were set in place for me to spend four days at the Ballyeamon Camping Barn. Liz offered me the option of renting a separate room, which would allow more privacy and quiet. We made plans for her to meet me at the train station in Ballymena, Liz’s birthplace, and from there we would drive to the Barn. This would be my last full week in Ireland. After saying goodbye to my cara (friend) Sorcha in Convoy, who happens to be Mick Bolgers (Colorado band Colocannon/Irish language instructor) sister, I headed by bus to Derry to catch the train to Ballymena. The stop in Derry was a bit tense because I could not get a straight answer about the connecting bus to the train station. The fun part while anxiously waiting was watching all of the uniformed students coming from school and going directly to the snack bar for munchies. They had that end of a long day look: Shirts were un-tucked, shoes scuffed, and hair all askew. The students use the city buses, which scatter in all directions in and around Derry delivering precious cargo when school is out for the day. Relieved to see the correct bus appear I was happy to be on the move once again. The train station was just over the bridge much to my surprise but too far to walk with heavy suitcase and aimsir ceobhránach (drizzly weather). This leg of the trip was uneventful and go hálainn (beautiful). The train tracks run along the sea for many miles and signs inside the train suggest we travelers watch for different kinds of birds and waterfowl. The trains also allow space for people in wheelchairs and they were being used. As we chugged along the late afternoon light softened the landscape and seascape. Clouds of white changed to pale blues and pinks that reflected in the water. It was lovely to watch evening come. I was happy I had chosen the train for this part of the journey and would recommend the trip. Liz was waiting at the station in Ballymena as she said she would be. By now it is dark and snowing. She immediately whisks me off to a writing workshop she is facilitating. I am happy to say I learned new ways of approaching writing and how to develop ideas. The students were all veterans of the class except for two, a mother and daughter, and all were serious about improving their writing skills. After the rang (class) we drove toward Ballyeamon Camping Barn. The snow continued to fall but the gritters had been out clearing the roads making for a safer journey. By the time we arrived the sky had cleared and we could see the realtaí (stars). The air in the hills was crisp. We breathed deep before going inside. Liz showed me to my abode, introduced me to her barn manager and said she would be very busy that week. I would see little of her for the next trí days. We were by then very tired and made short the conversation. On Tuesday maidin (morning) I awakened to a clear view of the Antrim mountains surrounded by the Glenariff National Forest: A view soon to disappear behind a wall of white. For the next three days the snow fell wet and heavy. It blocked the view of the hills, as did the fog coming in from the sea. I was without a cell phone, a computer, a car, and I did not turn on the teilifis. I stayed cloistered in my artist studio leaving only for two meals a day, breakfast and tea. It is normally a self-catering kitchen however because of the weather I was able to use some of the food in the kitchen. In my room I had a stash of apples, dates, almonds, and of course the daily supply of seacláid (chocolate) agus cupán tae. I can survive on simple fare. The barn is a two-story structure painted white with red trim. The bright exterior is a welcoming sight. It is a very attractive building lovingly cared for with an interesting history. Behind the barn is an area that looks like an old canal but is actually where the train tracks were that went to the mianach iarann (iron mines). Liz lives in the attached cottage at one end of the barn with her two beloved German shepherds. Rick the barn manager had the kitchen turned upside down while he hurriedly plastered cracks and finished painting for he was soon to leave to work near Corcaigh. Because of this we ate in the activity room where there is music and storytelling every Saturday night unless the weather prohibits travel. As I looked around this room I felt this haven that Liz has provided for friends, neighbors, and strangers like me was a healing place, a place where we put down our swords. She is a respected storyteller, works with conflict resolution, writes children’s books, teaches people to express themselves through writing, and hopes for a continued moving forward and away from the conflicts of the past in the North. And sometimes she stops and breathes. As most of you know who have visited Ireland the heating system is different from ours in the United States and used sparingly. The Irish are a hardy breed. There were times when I had on three or more layers of clothing. Thank goodness for silk thermals and the exercise machine in the studio. I am not complaining. I am spoiled. There was a great classical BBC radio station, which helped me focus on reading, editing some writing, and painting small watercolors. In spite of my struggling with the cold it was a fruitful visit and a spiritually challenging experience. My time at Ballyeamon Camping Barn was what I had hoped it would be. Liz Weir was welcoming and generous. I felt renewed in spirit and rested for the last leg of my trip to Belfast and then on to the Hill of Tara. If you are hoping for time off the beaten track while in Ireland find Ballyeamon Camping Barn and Liz Weir owner both on the Internet. Take time to appreciate the quiet beauty of the Antrim Hills and the surrounding forest. www.BallyeamonBarn.com (Susan Harold lives in Greeley Colorado where her hobbies include gardening, visual arts, music/singing, and Irish language)

Good Hotel Guide Makes for Great UK Holidays

by Katie Weber

The Good Hotel Guide (GHG) has been my best source for finding unique, small hotels, inns and B&B’s in Ireland, and Great Britain for many years. I first used it during my honeymoon in the early 1990’s and found a dramatic difference in the quality and overall experience between its hotels and those recommended by other guides.

The reasons for this are twofold. First, it is difficult for a hotel to get into the Guide. To be included, plain old travellers like you and me, must stay in a hotel, and be impressed enough to then sit down, write out a review, and send it in to the Guide. If enough travellers recommend a particular hotel, the property is then checked out by an anonymous inspector and if it passes muster, included in the Guide. Second, the GHG, unlike most of its competitors, accepts no payment of any kind from hotels and that includes advertising and hospitality. The Guide pays the cost of its inspections, all of which are anonymous. Operating in this way, it has built up a reputation for independent and reliable judgement. Its editors, Adam & Caroline Raphael have a long and distinguished history of quality journalism, working over the years for The Economist, The BBC, The Guardian, and The Observer.

The result is that the GHG is a treasure trove of weekend breaks, one night stays, and holiday locations. From lakeside country houses to seaside B&B’s, townhouse hotels to wonderfully eccentric guesthouses, there is something for everyone.

Travellers have different needs, tastes, wishes and pockets, so the range of places in the Good Hotel Guide is wide. Classic country houses are listed as well as simple, rural guesthouses. Restaurants-with-rooms are included, as are pubs with good food and accommodation. Budget B&Bs are also there alongside historic houses and informal homes away from home. In the cities, modern designer hotels sit alongside more traditional establishments. The Guide conveys the spirit of each place, written with wit and evocative style.

Perhaps the best thing about the Good Hotel Guide is that it is a delight to read. As noted in The Philadelphia Inquirer, ‘Half the fun of this book comes from reading the comments, which usually have the warm, entertaining quality of letters from an old friend.’

There are approximately 850 hotels listed in the 2008 Guide, more than 70 of them in Ireland. Here are excerpts from reviews for two of them:

Ballinderry Park in County Galway
In ‘glorious isolation in the eerily desolate countryside of east Galway’, this ‘beautifully proportioned Georgian building’ has been restored from ruin by George and Susie Gossip, ‘a charming couple’. The Gossips…receive guests in Irish country house style, with an honesty bar, ‘disguised as a cupboard’, and communal dining. ‘The restoration owes much to George’s good taste,’ says an inspector in 2007. ‘The drawing room, with a roaring log fire, is cosy on a chilly day. Our bedroom was not large, but warm; a cleverly installed bathroom.’ Mr. Gossip, who lectures on cooking game at the cookery school at Ballymaloe House (qv) in the off-season, serves a set ‘but flexible’ four-course dinner (tastes are discussed, and vegetarians catered for). ‘I had expressed an interest in game and was served with woodcock, shot on the land by the man himself.’ ‘Well-behaved’ dogs allowed. A fine stopping place for any aficionado of the Irish country house.

Flemingstown House in County Limerick
‘Superb. Imelda Sheedy-King is the perfect hostess. Top-quality dining at a reasonable price.’ A tribute in 2007 to this ‘flawless’ guest house on a working dairy farm near an important medieval town. The 18th century building, ‘comfortable rather than luxurious,’ has a ‘cosy lounge with mostly 19th-century pieces.’ The ‘energetic’ hostess, ‘the heart and soul of the place,’ welcomed returning visitors ‘with extraordinary warmth, and insisted on helping with our luggage.’ ‘Attention to every detail makes your stay special.’ Bedrooms are spacious: ‘Our well-lit room had a cheerful air, a crystal chandelier, superb views across field to the Ballyhoura mountains. ‘Dinner, in a room with big stained-glass windows, is ‘the highlight of a stay; scrumptious and plentiful.’ Mrs. Sheedy-King’s five-course menu (up to four choices for each course) features traditional dishes, e.g. leg of Irish lamb with mint sauce. Her sister’s own Cheddar cheese might be offered. ‘Give plenty of notice that you wish to dine, and bring your own wine.’ Breakfast has home-made breads, cheeses, jams and cakes; fresh juices and a range of cooked dishes including pancakes with banana and grapes. Families are accommodated. They can explore the farm and watch the cows being milked. The local pub has live music on weekends.

For the past 32 years, the GHG has specialized in discovering outstanding places to stay for its thousands of devoted readers. For its American readers, it has the added virtue of taking them on a trip to Ireland, England, Scotland or Wales that they will never forget. Stay in just one place recommended by this Guide, and you will never go back to your old way of choosing hotels.

The Guide also contains discount vouchers, worth $250, which enable visitors to get 25% off the normal rates at participating hotels. The Good Hotel Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2008 can be bought via its website: www.goodhotelguide.com or directly from the publisher, The Good Hotel Guide, 50 Addison Avenue, London W11 4QP, England. It is also available via Amazon.com

Planning a Trip

Dublin is 222km (138 miles) NE of Shannon Airport, 258km (160 miles) NE of Cork, 167km (104 miles) S of Belfast, 309km (192 miles) NE of Killarney, 219km (136 miles) E of Galway, 237km (147 miles) SE of Derry, and 142km (88 miles) N of Wexford

Visitor Information

Dublin Tourism operates six walk-in visitor centers in greater Dublin that are open every day except Christmas. The principal center is on Suffolk Street, Dublin 2, open from June to August Monday to Saturday from 9am to 8:30pm, Sunday and bank holidays 10:30am to 3pm, and the rest of the year Monday to Saturday 9am to 5:30pm, Sunday and bank holidays 10:30am to 3pm. The Suffolk Street office includes a currency exchange counter, a car-rental counter, an accommodations-reservations service, bus and rail information desks, a gift shop, and a cafe. For accommodations reservations throughout Ireland by credit card, contact Dublin Tourism at tel. 01/605-7700 or www.visitdublin.com.

The five other centers are in the Arrivals Hall of Dublin Airport; Exclusively Irish, O'Connell Street, Dublin 1; Baggot Street Bridge, Baggot Street, Dublin 2; The Square Towncentre, Tallaght, Dublin 24; and the ferry terminal at Dun Laoghaire Harbor. All centers are open year-round with at least the following hours: Monday to Friday 9am to 5:30pm and Saturday 9am to 5pm.

TERRY BISON RANCH CHEYENNE, WYOMING

About an hour north on I-25 from Denver, my wife, 3 1/2year old son, and I began shouting out the names of the various animals that we saw in the fields along our leisurely drive toward Wyoming. Just a half hour later we were on the southern outskirts of Cheyenne when my wife and I began calling out Buffalo! as we pointed toward the herd just east of the highway. From the backseat our son responded, and camels too!
My wife and I shared silent smiles at the humor of a small boys imagination.

After dropping off our Celtic Connection newspaper, we enjoyed a nice lunch at the Cheyenne Depot (we highly recommend the sweet potato fries). We picked up some literature in the lobby which included a brochure on the Terry Bison Ranch located just south of town. Thinking that the herd of Buffalo that we had seen on our way might be a part of the Ranch we left on a mission.
About 7 miles south on I-25 (and about 5 miles from Colorados northern border) we took the Terry Ranch Road Exit (WY Exit #2). Traveling east under the highway we began to head south along the frontage road.
Almost immediately we saw a herd of buffalo grazing along the fence line. After a tourist stop for a few photos we continued south. About 2 miles later, as Terry Bison Ranch came into view we began to make out the forms of other animals they had brown hides, somewhat like buffalo - but they had longer necks and humps on their backs hey, the kid was right-Camels!
We drove around as much of the Ranch complex as we could, but most of the Ranches 30,000 acres are off limits to vehicles. Along the way we saw, not surprisingly -horses, cattle, chickens, turkeys, donkeys, goats - but also other non-bison-ranch critters like, llamas, ostriches and emus. Other wild life listed in the Ranch promo materials include peacocks, turkins (1/2 turkey-1/2 chicken), and beefalo (1/2 buffalo-1/2 steer).

First stop on site was at the Terry Trading Post. The well stocked store had everything from mementos of the old west to food supplies (including meat from their buffalo herd). The friendly staff gave us a map and some helpful Ranch information along with the keys to a cabin. The cabins are priced at $79.95 and sleep 3-4, depending on what style you get (additional cots are available). There are log cabins reminiscent of the frontier and a few modern cabins reminiscent 1960s mountain cabin. Each cabin has a kitchenette, with a small refrigerator, microwave and sink. There is also a private bathroom with a shower. The all have decks with a very comfortable I-could-stay-here-for-awhile feel to them as you kick back and watch the horseback riders and buffalo roam the rolling hills and folks head to the fishing pond to catch supper.
For $58.95 you can stay overnight in the historic Bunkhouse, the original building used by the 7XL cowboys who worked the ranch in the early 1900's. Each of the 17 private rooms can sleeps 2 on one full-sized bed (sorry, no extra room for cots). Mens and womens restrooms are in the bunkhouse, but bring your robe because the shower house is next door.
Space is also available for RVs and campers next to the Trading Post.

If you would like someone else to do the cookin n pourin, the Brass Buffalo Saloon and Senator's Restaurant is open in the summer months serving western style vittles and drink, morning, noon, and night. Their dinner menu includes bison, beef, chicken, seafood and more. Western entertainment is available most Saturday nights (all week long during Frontier Days)

Other daylight offerings include a train tour on the Terry Bison Express. The train has two open-air cars for some great picture taking of the roughly 2,500 head of bison/buffalo on the Ranch. Guided trail horses rides (with optional breakfast packages) are available for those 8 and older. Younger folks can saddle-up for a fun pony ride and receive an "Official Cowboy or Cowgirl" certificate!
Stop by for a day or a week and awaken your inner-cowboy or cowgirl at Terry Bison Ranch Resort.
Call Telephone: 307-634-4171, Fax: 307-634-9746.
Directions to the Ranch: From I-25 take WY Exit #2 (Terry Ranch Road Exit) located about 7 miles south of Cheyenne or approximately 5 miles North of CO border, go to the East Service Road and head South about 3 miles and the ranch will be on the East side of the road.
(by Pat McCullough From The Celtic Connection, July 07 issue, "Travel Here...Travel There" column)

Look Low to Confluence Park: Rejuvenated Birthplace of Denver

On the lower side of LODO (Lower Downtown) where Cherry Creek meets the South Platte River is Confluence Park, the birthplace of Denver.

Before it became Denver, the area was an encampment for the Arapahoe Indians. The U.S. government officially recognized that the land belonged to the
Native Americans in the 1851 Fort Laramie Treaty. However, when gold was discovered in 1858 and whites moved in mass to the area the treaty was unofficially forgotten.

William McGaa, (known by many as “Jack Jones”) mountain man, trapper, trader, camped around the Confluence with his friends the Arapahoe. Fond of the bottle and a renowned story teller McGaa was said to have been educated in Dublin, Ireland and to have been a son of an Irish baronet – he also boasted that he was son of the Lord Mayor of London and had a family estate in Scotland, Glen Arm. McGaa was married to or consorted with a number of native women from various tribes. He rationalized that he had authority to transfer land from his “wives” relatives. McGaa along with William Larimer acquired the land for the settlement of St. Charles, now called Denver. As a reward to the Indians, he supposedly named streets after his “wives” Wewatta, Wazee, and Champa. McGaa also named Glenarm Street after his alleged family castle and McGaa Street to honor himself.

Although McGaa at one time owned a Ferry on the Platte, was a 1958 stockholder in St. Charles City, and in whose cabin in Auraria the Denver City Town Company was formed Nov 22, 1858, and subsequently owned several Denver lots, he was not regarded highly by the more refined Denver pioneers. According to Colorado historian, professor, and author Tom Noel, “This town founder became an embarrassment to respectable pioneers. In 1866, the Denver City Council renamed McGaa Street as Holladay Street (changed to Market Street in 1880), in honor of the man who brought the Holladay Stage line to town. McGaa, the unworthy tosspot, was banished from the ranks of the founding fathers. His presence—and that of his half-Indian wife and children—in the Denver Pantheon of pioneer heroes might sully the reputations of other noble white male founders, whom future generations were expected to celebrate.”

McGaa died a year after the sanitation efforts of the City Council. The following notice from the December 16, 1867 Rocky Mountain News was kind but not detailed: “Died, in this city, yesterday, in the morning, Dec 15, William W. McGaa, better known as “Jack Jones,” in his 45th year. The deceased had been a resident of the Rocky Mountain regions about 28 years, the companion of Beckwourth, Bridger and other mountaineers of note. He was a man of more than ordinary intelligence, and a very fair education. Generous to a fault, and a steadfast friend. His remains were buried yesterday evening in Mt. Prospect Cemetery, followed by a few of the old friends who first knew him here in the spring of 1859.” “Peace to his Ashes.”

140 years after his passing, the imaginative storyteller McGaa would not have recognized the Confluence in his wildest dreams. Through a series of recent face-lifts and major redevelopments, the low-lying Confluence Park and surrounds have taken on a high seat among Denver’s most beautiful and vibrant neighborhoods. Located off 15th Street bridge between Platte Street and Little Raven (named in 1995 after the friendly Arapahoe chief who welcomed- and was subsequently displaced by -the white pioneers) you can find wonderful panoramic views of Denver and nice seating for lunch or picnic. Access the park by way of enjoyable bike paths and pedestrian walk-ways. There is a beach for swimming and a great kayaking run (also can use inner tubes).
Confluence Kayaks, 1615 Platte Street, Denver, CO 80202 ( 303-433-3676) can teach you kayaking, provide gear, and over tours. They also rent bikes – and telemark ski gear in the winter months. Gear also available at the REI Flagship store (located behind My Brothers Bar at 15th & Platte).

Every Saturday from June 9th through August 11th, from 10:00am to 2:00pm, cityWILD (303.227.6863; http://citywild.org) offers free river rafting rides ( Ages: 8 and up) on the South Platte River through the rapids at Confluence Park/Shoemaker Plaza in front of the REI Flagship store, just upstream from the 15th Street bridge. No reservations are required; participants/parents will only need to sign a waiver. Guides, equipment, and instruction are provided.

If young kids – infants to 8- are in the mix when you are planning your trip down to confluence park you might check out The Children’s Museum, 2121 Children's Museum Drive, Denver, CO 80211( 303.433.7444). From I-25, take the 23rd Avenue exit, number 211. Once on 23rd Avenue, head east toward downtown then take the first right on Children’s Museum Drive and follow the curved road to the Museum. Cost: Free to $7.50. Parking is usually free except on special occasions (call ahead).

Next to the Children’s Museum is the Downtown Aquarium, 700 Water Street (303-561-4450) www.aquariumrestaurants.com, where there are loads of fun things to do here for all ages. Formerly the nonprofit Colorado's Ocean Journey, it’s now owned and operated by Landry's Seafood Restaurants. The facility includes the Aquarium Restaurant, where guests are seated around a 150,000 gallon aquarium full of fish from sharks to stingrays (they are feed often to avoid public hunger attacks). The restaurant has good food and is moderately priced. Admission to the restaurant is free – however, if you want to tour the facility exhibits it can become a little pricey if you have a big group Admission fees: Adults $13.75; Seniors(65+) $12.95; Children (4-12) $8.25; 3 and Under Free. Prices go down after 6pm. The facility has a number of special group rental offerings – overnight birthday parties for kids, weddings, even diving with the sharks (again, they should be well fed prior). Go online or call for the list of offerings.
Outside the Aquarium are bicycle rentals built for 2 – 6 people. During the summer there is a reptile petting area that most kids can enjoy for $2. The volunteers who work there actually own and live with these pet snakes, turtles and iguanas. When we took or 3 year-old there we were really impressed on how well the staff worked with the small children (a few of their mothers were freaked-out beyond help).

Parking around the Aquarium is a little complicated. Although not advertised, we have taken advantage of the plenty full free parking next door at the Children’s Museum. Official Aquarium parking across the street is $6.00, but is free after six for dinners.
Street meters in front are for a maximum of 2 hours. Your call.

For more food, fun, and shopping head to 15th & Platte (from the Aquarium just continue along Water Street which becomes Platte Street around 15th). My Bother’s Bar (303-455-9991), House of Commons, English Tea Room (303-455-4832), Paris On The Platte (303-455-2451), Vitamin Cottage. Information (303-455-3172) are just a few eat in-or-out offerings in walking distance of each other and Confluence Park. Continue to celebrate views, water, greenery, art, and movement by walking or biking across from the Confluence to Commons Park, or enjoy Centennial Flower Gardens, patterned after the Gardens of Versailles, located on 1100 Little Raven adjacent to Elitch Gardens amusement park (A combination restroom and maintenance office is located on the site for visitor’s convenience).
One last word on parking – read the signs. There is still some free parking on Platte Street between 17th and 19th (also up 19th toward the free Skate Park). But, meters can go up over night – so read the signs.

Sources include Thomas J. Noel/Denvergoc.org; Denver Library.org/Research; wikipedia.org; geocities.com
(by Pat McCullough, The Celtic Connection Aug 07 issue
"Travel Here... Travel There" column)

SPRAOI WATERFORD 2007 Celebrates the Wild West

"The biggest street party in Ireland" The Examiner

The annual Spraoi Festival in Waterford is a gem in Irelands calendar of summer events, offering audiences a dazzling and diverse array of free entertainment over the August bank holiday. For three days the quays, squares and streets of Waterford are transformed into vibrant outdoor stages. This free Mediterranean carnival-style event features performances by top class acts in world music and international street theatre along with an exotic array of performers from throughout the world, offering audiences an atmosphere that is unique among Irish festivals.
This year Spraoi will be offering a stunning line-up, from the Ukulele Orchestra of Great Britain to Icaruss bronzed Australian Adonises, and from the Hot Potato Jazz Syncopators to the Daredevil Chickens. The 2007 festival will also see the Irish premiere of Storm Bringer, performed by one of Britains leading street spectacle companies, Avanti Display. The piece is inspired by Shakespeares The Tempest and audiences can expect the companys trademark love of water to bring life to the storm.
True to its heritage as a festival offering a truly unique celebration of original street theatre, Spraoi will be offering its audiences a total of no less than nineteen street theatre companies. Thirteen will be presenting Irish premieres, and five new works by international companies.
The Spraoi Parade, the company's own production, will be held, according to honorable tradition, held on Sunday evening and form the climax of the festival. This year the parade is entitled Yee-Haw!!! a tribute to the Western. Using imagery from the Wild West the show will feature over 200 performers and an array of floats and special effects, and as ever will be followed by a dazzling fireworks display over the River Suir, a fitting climax to a great outdoor spectacle!
Set against the backdrop of Waterfords dazzling coastline and rolling hills, the Festival attracts in the region of 180,000 people to Waterford City, with the parade alone having an audience of 60,000. The event is constantly praised for its safety and friendlessness, and is consistently received with great enthusiasm, with 92% of last years audience saying they will return.

SPRAOI 2007 runs AUGUST 3-5, All events at the festival are free, with daily activities generally running from mid-afternoon to midnight. Additional information may be found at www.spraoi.com. (by Stephanie Dickenson
from The Celtic Connection, July 07 "Travel Here...Travel There" column)